September 13, 2024

The Influence of Art Eras and Movements on Jewelry Trends: A Journey Through Time

Jewelry has always been more than just an accessory—it’s a reflection of the art, culture, and values of the time. Throughout history, art movements have significantly influenced jewelry design, shaping trends and inspiring new styles that resonate with people’s tastes and ideals of the time. From the intricate designs of ancient civilizations to the bold, geometric patterns of modern times, the evolution of jewelry has been deeply intertwined with the history of art. In this article, we’ll explore how different art eras and movements have influenced jewelry trends, creating timeless pieces that continue to captivate us today.

Ancient Times: The Birth of Symbolic Jewelry

Egyptian (Artist) ca. 945-715 BCE (Third Intermediate Period, 22nd-23rd dynasty) faience with glaze

Swallow Bird Stud Earrings, Leslie

The influence of art on jewelry can be traced back to ancient civilizations, where jewelry was not only a form of adornment but also a symbol of power, status, and spirituality. In ancient Egypt, jewelry was deeply symbolic, with designs inspired by nature and the afterlife. Scarabs, ankhs, and the Eye of Horus were common motifs, often crafted in gold and adorned with vibrant gemstones like lapis lazuli, turquoise, and carnelian.

Blue Topaz Cuban Chain Necklace, Harley

Sapphire Diamond Eye Station Bracelet, Missandei

Mesopotamian jewelry, crafted by some of the earliest known civilizations, like the Sumerians, Akkadians, Babylonians, and Assyrians, was a stunning expression of wealth, status, and spiritual beliefs. Dating back as early as 3000 BCE, Jewelry was not only a personal adornment but also believed to offer protection from evil and to symbolize divine favor. Techniques such as filigree, granulation, and inlay work showcased their exceptional craftsmanship.

Emerald and Diamond Statement Ring, Ardena

Diamond and Baguette-Cut Pink Sapphire Ring, Rosalind

The Etruscans were true masters of metalsmithing, skillfully working with iron, tin, copper, silver, and gold while perfecting the art of smelting bronze. These unique techniques are beautifully showcased in the gold ornaments and jewelry they created, highlighting the Etruscans' exceptional precision and ability to craft intricate designs and patterns with astonishing detail.

Gold Stud with Pegasus and Chimera: Earring stud with Pegasus and Chimera. Gold. c. 4th century BCE.

Celestial Motif Emerald Diamond Ring, Journi

Similarly, in ancient Greece and Rome, jewelry was influenced by mythology and the natural world. Greek jewelry often featured intricate designs of laurel wreaths, leaves, and animals, symbolizing victory, eternity, and protection. Roman jewelry, on the other hand, was heavily influenced by Greek art but also incorporated elements of power and prestige, with large, bold pieces made of gold, pearls, and colored stones.

Myrtle Wreath, Gold, 330-250 BC, via Museum of Fine Arts Houston

Diamond Leaf Ear Climber, Laurel

Pre-Columbian Jewelry: Craftsmanship Rooted in Culture and Nature

Pre-Columbian jewelry practices, spanning the diverse cultures of Mesoamerica and South America before the arrival of Columbus, reflect a deep connection to nature, spirituality, and social status. Cultures such as the Maya, Aztec, and Inca are renowned for their exquisite metalwork and intricate designs using gold, silver, and copper to create jewelry. These cultures believed that jewelry was not just a form of adornment, but a powerful expression of status, identity, spirituality, and connection to the divine.

Emerald Cuban Chain Station Necklace, Salma

Emerald Diamond Halo Stud Earrings, Ema

In these societies, jewelry was often worn by the elite, including rulers, priests, and warriors, as a status symbol and as a means of invoking spiritual protection. Pieces like pectorals, nose rings, ear spools, and bracelets were intricately crafted, often featuring motifs that represented deities, animals, and celestial bodies. For example, the Aztecs revered turquoise, using it in elaborate mosaics and amulets believed to have protective powers.

Turquoise Sun Necklace, Winona

Similarly, the Incas were master goldsmiths, creating stunning pieces that were thought to channel the sun god’s divine energy.

Diamond or Gemstone Snake Ring, Eden

Ancient India: A Legacy of Opulence and Spiritual Significance

In ancient India, jewelry was far more than just a symbol of wealth and status; it was deeply intertwined with spiritual and cultural beliefs. Indian artisans were renowned for their intricate craftsmanship, creating elaborate pieces from gold, silver, and precious gemstones like diamonds, emeralds, and rubies. Jewelry designs often featured detailed filigree work, elaborate carvings, and motifs inspired by nature, such as lotus flowers, peacocks, and elephants.

via Christie’s, New York

Emerald Diamond Half Eternity Ring, Zelena

Diamond Elephant Necklace, Zaya

Signet Rings in the Middle Ages: Symbols of Power and Authority

During the Middle Ages, signet rings were more than just jewelry; they were essential tools of power and authority. Worn by nobles, clergy, and royals, these rings featured engraved family crests, coats of arms, or unique symbols that acted as a personal signature. Signet rings were used to seal documents and letters, ensuring authenticity and protecting against forgery. The wearer would press the ring into hot wax, leaving a distinctive mark that validated the message or decree.

Signet rings during this era were crafted from gold, silver, or bronze, reflecting the wearer’s status and influence. These rings were often passed down through generations, becoming cherished heirlooms that symbolized lineage, loyalty, and legacy.

Diamond Starburst Signet Ring, Estelle

The Renaissance: A Rebirth of Classical Beauty

The Renaissance was a time of rediscovery and revival of classical art, and this was reflected in the jewelry of the period. Inspired by the art and culture of ancient Greece and Rome, Renaissance jewelry was characterized by its intricate craftsmanship, use of precious metals, and incorporation of religious and mythical themes. Jewelers of the time created elaborate necklaces, brooches, and rings adorned with enamel, pearls, and gemstones, often depicting scenes from mythology or religious icons.

1536 PORTRAIT OF JANE SEYMOUR, QUEEN OF ENGLAND, BY HANS HOLBEIN, IN WHICH SHE WEARS JEWELS HE CREATED.

Emerald and Diamond Vintage Ring, Florence

One of the hallmarks of Renaissance jewelry was the use of the cameo—a carved gemstone or shell featuring a raised portrait or scene. These pieces were highly prized and often passed down through generations as family heirlooms. The Renaissance also saw the rise of personalized jewelry, with monograms and family crests becoming popular motifs.

Blue Agate Cameo Signet Ring, Deren

The Baroque Era: Extravagance and Ornamentation

The Baroque era, which spanned from the late 16th century to the early 18th century, was known for its grandeur, extravagance, and dramatic flair. This period saw a shift from the more restrained designs of the Renaissance to bolder, more ornate jewelry that reflected the opulence and power of the time.

Baroque jewelry was characterized by its intricate, flowing designs, often featuring large gemstones set in elaborate gold settings. Pearls, which were highly prized during this era, were commonly used in Baroque jewelry, along with diamonds, rubies, and emeralds. The jewelry of this period was not just an accessory—it was a statement of wealth, power, and artistic taste.

The Crucifixion, first half 17th century, Northern European, Gold, partly enameled, Baroque pearl, MET Museum

Ruby Diamond Garland Eternity Bracelet, Ivy

Emerald Diamond Engagement Ring, Gaia

Blue Topaz and Diamond Hoop Earrings, Amalia

The Victorian Era: Sentimentality and Symbolism

The Victorian era, named after Queen Victoria of England, was a time of great change and innovation, and this was reflected in the jewelry of the period. The Victorian era is often divided into three phases: the Romantic Period, the Grand Period, and the Aesthetic Period, each with its own distinct style and influence.

During the Romantic Period (1837-1861), jewelry was heavily influenced by themes of love, nature, and sentimentality. Lockets, brooches, and rings featuring hearts, flowers, and birds were popular, often containing a lock of hair or a secret message. The use of colored gemstones like garnets, amethysts, and turquoise was common, while "mourning jewelry", often crafted from jet and onyx, became a significant trend after the death of Prince Albert.

via Laurelle Antique Jewellery

Single Pearl Diamond Flower Ring, Dahlia

Emerald Flower Studs, Alondra

Influenced by the Queen’s mourning, The Grand Period (1861-1885) was marked by more somber and ornate designs. Black jewelry, heavy gold pieces, and cameos were prominent, reflecting the era’s fascination with death and remembrance.

Victorian Etruscan Revival Gold Earrings, Grand Period

Black Diamond Half Eternity Ring, Myla

The Aesthetic Period (1885-1901) saw a return to lighter, more delicate designs, with an emphasis on artistic expression and craftsmanship. Japanese art and culture, with its intricate patterns and natural motifs, greatly influenced the jewelry of this time.

Victorian Opal Necklace, Antique Jewelry University

Diamond and Pearl Pendant Necklace, Perla

Pendant earrings made a stylish return in the 1890s, designed to move gracefully and catch the light. They were often adorned with plenty of diamonds, adding a touch of dazzling sparkle.

Victorian Diamond Drop Earrings. Circa 1890, Antique Jewelry University

Double Diamond Drop Huggies, Emmy

Art Nouveau: Nature and Fantasy

The Art Nouveau movement, which emerged in the late 19th century, brought a breath of fresh air to the world of jewelry design. Characterized by its flowing lines, organic shapes, and emphasis on nature, Art Nouveau jewelry was a reaction against the rigid, industrial designs of the previous era. Jewelers like René Lalique and Georges Fouquet became famous for their innovative use of materials like enamel, glass, and semi-precious stones, creating pieces that were as much works of art as they were accessories.

René Lalique Pendant with Plique-á-Jour Ename, Antique Jewelry University

Art Nouveau jewelry often featured motifs of flowers, leaves, insects, and mythical creatures, with an emphasis on fluidity and movement. The use of vibrant, iridescent materials, such as opals, moonstones, and pearls, added to the dreamlike quality of the jewelry, making it a favorite among those who sought something unique and artistic.

Marquise Diamond Open Leaf Ring, Zuna

Art Deco: Geometric Glamour and Modernism

The Art Deco movement of the 1920s and 1930s was a celebration of modernity, luxury, and glamour. In contrast to the flowing, naturalistic designs of Art Nouveau, Art Deco jewelry was characterized by its bold, geometric shapes, clean lines, and use of vibrant, contrasting colors. The movement was heavily influenced by the rise of industrialization, as well as the art and architecture of ancient Egypt and the Far East.

Natural Emerald Gatsby Ring, Gatsby

Art Deco jewelry often featured diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and sapphires set in platinum or white gold, with designs that emphasized symmetry and order. The use of new materials, such as Bakelite and lacquer, also became popular, allowing for the creation of more affordable, mass-produced jewelry that was accessible to a wider audience.

Platinum Ring with 2.34 Ct. Burmese Ruby, Diamonds and Millegrain Details, Antique Jewelry University

Ruby and Diamond Engagement Ring, Lauryn

Art Deco Citrine and Peridot Ring, Nandin

Octagon Emerald Ring, Geneva

Geometric Baguette Diamond Necklace, Sarafina

Graduated Diamond Bar Bracelet, Ahava

Mid-Century Modern: Bold and Playful Designs

The mid-20th century saw a shift towards more playful and experimental jewelry designs, reflecting the optimism and creativity of the post-war era. Mid-century modern jewelry was characterized by its use of bold, abstract shapes, bright colors, and innovative materials. Designers pushed the boundaries of traditional jewelry, creating pieces that were both sculptural and wearable.

Bow Motif Diamond Ring, c.1950s. via Antique Jewelry University

Diamond Emerald Wrap Around Ring, Dana

Diamond Croissant Huggies, Avalon

This era also saw the rise of statement jewelry, with large cocktail rings, oversized earrings, and chunky bracelets becoming popular. The use of unconventional materials, such as plastics, wood, and ceramics, allowed for more affordable and accessible jewelry, making it possible for people of all backgrounds to express their style and individuality.

Cultured Pearl and Bone Ring, Margaret de Patta. Photo Courtesy of Bonhams, via Antique Jewelry University

Bold Amethyst Statement Ring, Laila

Contemporary Jewelry: A Fusion of Art and Innovation

Today, jewelry continues to be influenced by a wide range of art movements and cultural trends, resulting in a rich and diverse landscape of styles and designs. Contemporary jewelry often blends traditional craftsmanship with modern technology, allowing for the creation of pieces that are both innovative and deeply personal.

Marquise Diamond Cluster Ring, Sakura

Bold and Ribbed Diamond Open Ring, Lumen

Diamond Cluster X Ring, Arlette

The rise of ethical and sustainable practices has also influenced modern jewelry trends, with many designers focusing on environmentally friendly materials and responsible sourcing.

Conclusion: The Enduring Influence of Art on Jewelry

The history of jewelry is a testament to the enduring influence of art on personal adornment. From the symbolic designs of ancient civilizations to the bold, modernist pieces of today, jewelry has always been a reflection of the art, culture, and values of its time. At Sarah Elise Jewelry, we celebrate this rich history by offering a curated collection of jewelry inspired by the art movements that have shaped our world. Explore our collection today and discover timeless pieces that connect you to the beauty and creativity of the past.